Pletna Boats

Pletna boats are the traditional wooden passenger boats of Lake Bled, and a ride in one is among the classic things to do in the town. The pletna is a long, shallow, flat-bottomed boat with a pointed bow and a coloured awning over the benches, rowed by a boatman, the pletnar, who stands at the stern and pushes two oars forward in a style that recalls the gondoliers of Venice. The design has been used on the lake for centuries and is closely tied to the identity of Bled, appearing on postcards, in paintings and in the local imagination.

The tradition is old. The boats are said to go back to the sixteenth century, and local history tells that in the eighteenth century the Empress Maria Theresa granted the right to run them to a small number of families, a privilege that passed from father to son. Even today the role of pletnar is inherited within the families, and learning to row a pletna properly takes years, since the boatman must keep the heavy boat on course, often with a full load, using only two long oars while standing. The work is a source of pride, and the pletnarji are among the best-known characters of the town.

The usual route runs across the lake from one of the boarding points to Bled Island, the small island in the middle of the lake that carries the pilgrimage church of the Assumption of Mary. Boarding points are found around the shore, including near the park by the spa, in front of the old hotel at the lake edge, and at Mlino and Velika Zaka on the other sides. The crossing takes about twenty minutes at a gentle rowing pace, and the boats carry up to a score of passengers. On the island, visitors can climb the broad stairway to the church, ring the wishing bell inside and enjoy a short stay before the boatman rows back.

The views from the water are the main reward. Bled Castle on its cliff, the pale shape of the island and the wall of the Julian Alps beyond are all at their best from the middle of the lake, and early morning, when mist lifts from the water, is especially atmospheric. The crossing is also a quiet, calm way to enjoy the lake, since no engines are used.

Pletna rides suit families, couples and first-time visitors. Tickets are sold at the boarding points, prices and timetables vary with the season and with weather, and in summer it can help to arrive early to avoid queues. Ask the boatman about the island stay and the return time before setting off.