Korenika & Moskon Winery

The Dragonja valley, in the far southwest of Slovenia, is one of the greenest and least developed corners of Slovenian Istria, and the hills above it are planted with vines and olive trees. Korenika & Moškon, spelled Moskon in plain ASCII, is a family estate there that has built its name on working the land carefully, and it is regularly described as one of the leading organic and biodynamic producers on this part of the Adriatic coast. Biodynamic farming goes a step beyond organic: it treats the vineyard as a living whole, uses natural preparations rather than synthetic chemicals, and pays attention to the rhythms of the seasons and the moon. Whether or not you share the philosophy, the practical result is a vineyard that is alive with insects, birds and flowers.

The flagship grape of Slovenian Istria is Malvazija, a white variety that produces fresh, aromatic wines with notes of citrus, herbs and almond, and it is the estate's calling card. Alongside it you will find other whites and a range of reds, with Refošk, known elsewhere as Refosco, being the most characteristic local red, a deeply coloured, tannic and slightly peppery wine that goes well with the hearty food of the hinterland. International varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are also grown in Istria, and some producers make wines from them. The estate also produces olive oil from its own trees, as well as spirits and liqueurs, which means that a tasting can range from wine to oil and give a broad picture of Istrian flavours.

The soils here are flysch, a layered rock of sandstone and marl that gives the wines minerality and holds moisture in the dry summers, and the proximity of the sea softens the climate. The result is wines that taste of the place: briny, herbal and sun-warmed. Visitors can expect a guided tasting that explains the family's approach, the challenges of organic viticulture in a changing climate and the choices made in the cellar. It is best to arrange a visit in advance, since the estate is a working farm and opening hours are not fixed. Tastings are often accompanied by local ham, cheese and bread, and it is worth asking about buying olive oil and wine to take home.

The setting adds to the pleasure. The estate lies close to the Dragonja River, and the surrounding hills offer walking and cycling. Flysch layers, pools and waterfalls at the confluence with the Rokava River are a short drive away, the Historical remnants of Mazurinov Mill and Tonina House are other places to see, Gold Istra offers local produce, and Walking paths from nearby villages lead into the hills.

It suits wine lovers and anyone interested in sustainable farming. Chardonnay and Pinot Gris round out the range of this Winery, and visitors can taste them beside the Malvazija.