Gold Istra

Gold Istra is a truffle and food experience in the Dragonja area of Slovenian Istria, the quiet inland valley that runs down toward the Bay of Piran near the border with Croatia. The country here is a world away from the beach resorts: wooded flysch hills, terraced olive groves, vineyards and small hamlets, cut by the Dragonja and the neighbouring Rižana river valleys. Its forests are home to truffles, the prized underground fungi that grow in association with the roots of oaks, hazels and other trees, and the area has built a reputation among food lovers for finding and cooking them. Operators run guided experiences that revolve around the hunt, the table and the countryside, and details of programmes and prices should be confirmed in advance.

Truffle hunting is the centrepiece. Because truffles grow underground and give off a strong scent that only some animals can detect, hunters work with trained dogs, which follow the aroma and dig at the spot, and the truffle hunter steps in to lift the prize with a small tool. The experience usually begins with an explanation of how truffles live and how dogs are trained, then a walk in the forest with the dogs, and a chance to see a truffle emerge from the soil. Istria has both black and white truffles, depending on the season, and the most valued species are found in the autumn and winter months, though some are available at other times of the year. Hunts are best booked ahead, since the season and the weather affect the chances of finding truffles.

The experience continues in the kitchen and at the table. Cooking classes and tasting menus show how truffle is used, grated over eggs, pasta, risotto or cheese, or blended into oils and spreads, and the simple dishes of Istria are often the best vehicles for its aroma. Tastings of local wines, especially Malvazija and Refošk, and of olive oil, cured meats and cheeses fill out the meal. Some programmes offer more active options, including adventure tours of the valley by off-road vehicle or bicycle, and wine tastings at estates in the hills.

The valley has plenty to see besides. Walking paths follow the rivers and link villages, and the old watermills along the Dragonja are reminders of the rural past. The coast, with the Venetian town of Piran, the salt pans of Sečovlje and the beaches, is a short drive away, and the hamlet of Padna and the valley's farm cellars add character.

The experience suits food lovers, couples and families with older children. Wear sturdy shoes for the forest, and ask in advance about dietary needs.