Thermal Springs in Prekmurje

Prekmurje, the flat Pannonian corner of Slovenia beyond the Mura river, is Slovenia’s thermal-water region, and spa visits here are as much a part of the local routine as the pumpkin seed oil and gibanica on the table. Beneath the plain lies a deep basin of hot mineral water. Much of it was found in the twentieth century while geologists were drilling for oil and gas, and the wells that came up with hot water instead became the basis for a string of spa resorts, which continue to draw guests from Slovenia, Hungary, Austria and further afield.

The best known cluster is at Moravske Toplice, a small village that has grown around its springs. Terme 3000 is one of the main complexes there and is known for its large indoor and outdoor pool areas, slides and saunas, and Terme Vivat is another resort in the same place with its own pools and wellness facilities. Further east near the border towns, Terme Lendava offers thermal pools and a spa centre in a town with strong Hungarian-speaking roots, which gives Lendava a bilingual character not found elsewhere in Slovenia. Each resort has its own character, so it is worth looking at what each offers before choosing.

The waters are mineralised and are generally promoted for relaxing muscles and joints. Whether you believe in the therapeutic claims or not, the practical experience is warm water in an open landscape, which is especially pleasant on a cool autumn or winter day when steam rises from the outdoor pools. Most resorts combine pools with massage, treatments, gyms and restaurants, and many offer day tickets for visitors who are not staying overnight.

The surroundings are as relaxing as the water. The land is flat, green and open, with fields of maize and sunflowers, vineyards on the low hills, ponds and storks nesting on village rooftops. It is good cycling country, and many resorts rent bikes. Traditional food is worth trying: bograč, a rich goulash-style stew, prekmurska gibanica, a layered pastry of poppy seed, walnut, apple and cottage cheese, and pumpkin seed oil in nearly everything, even over vanilla ice cream.

A thermal stay suits families, couples and anyone looking for a slow few days. Opening hours, prices and facilities vary by resort and by season, so check with the individual spa before you go.