Ščurek

Ščurek is a family winery in Goriška Brda, the hilly wine country in the far west of Slovenia, where the vineyards run right up to the Italian border. The family has been growing grapes and making wine here for many generations, and the cellar is one of the older family operations in the region. The estate stands in the village of Plešivo, one of the hilltop settlements of Brda, with views over the surrounding slopes, orchards and cypress-lined lanes, and it is a good example of how much of the region's wine is still made by small, independent families rather than by large companies.

The local grapes are those that thrive in the warm days and cool nights of Brda. Rebula, the main white variety, is the pride of the region and is made in fresh, aromatic and also fuller, amber styles. Other varieties grown here include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Malvasia, Merlot and Cabernet, and many of them are made into both still and sparkling wines. The family blends traditional methods, such as long maceration and ageing in large wooden barrels, with modern cellar technology, and the aim is wines that reflect the character of the hills.

What sets the visit apart is the cellar itself, which doubles as an art gallery. Paintings and sculptures are displayed among the barrels and tanks, and the combination of wine and art gives tastings an unusual and relaxed atmosphere. The cellar is large enough to receive groups, from small gatherings to larger parties, and it can host events, concerts and exhibitions. During a visit, guests taste a range of wines, hear about the history of the family and the estate, and can buy bottles to take away. The winery is accessible to visitors with reduced mobility and can receive buses and camper vans.

The surroundings are part of the pleasure. From the terrace or the lanes around the village, the view takes in terraced hillsides and the villages of Brda, a landscape often compared to Tuscany. Ščurek fits well into a day of exploring the region, and nearby sights include Movia, a biodynamic estate, Klet Brda, the cooperative cellar, Villa Vipolže, Dobrovo Castle and the Viewing Tower in Gonjače. Krčnik and Kotline and the Vineyards of Goriška Brda are covered in separate entries. Tastings are usually by appointment, so book ahead, and arrange a driver if you plan to taste at several cellars.