Hiša Joannes Protner Winery

Hiša Joannes Protner is a family wine estate in the hills near Lenart in Slovenske gorice, the long ridge of vineyards that runs north-east of Maribor towards the Austrian and Hungarian borders. The region is one of Slovenia's classic white wine landscapes. The soils are a mix of marl and sandstone, the slopes face south and the climate is warm in summer with cool nights, which helps grapes keep their freshness. Hill farms, cellars and small roadside crosses dot the ridges, and the vineyards are often steep enough that most of the work has to be done by hand.

The estate is known for Renski Riesling, the Slovenian name for Rhine Riesling, which does well on the steep slopes here and gives wines with clear acidity, citrus and stone-fruit aromas and the potential to age for many years. Alongside it you can expect other aromatic white varieties typical of Štajerska, as well as sparkling wine, since the region has a strong tradition of traditional-method sparkling wine. The estate describes its approach as organic, and the vineyard management reflects that: working the soil carefully, limiting treatments and relying on native yeasts in the cellar are common features of this style of winemaking.

A visit usually begins in the cellar, where large wooden barrels, steel tanks and a cool bottle cellar show how the wines are made and kept. Tastings are generally accompanied by simple local food such as cured meats, cheese and bread, in the manner of a Štajerska wine cellar. Smaller groups are the norm, and booking in advance is the way to arrange a visit, as it is a working family business rather than a large tourist cellar. Ask about the time of year, because the cellar is busiest at harvest in autumn and calmer in winter and spring.

The surroundings are worth the trip on their own. Lenart is a small town with the Parish Church of St. Leonard, and close by you will find Negova Castle, the Cerkev Sv. Treh Kraljev, the Way of the Cross walk and the Wine Fountain Vodole, a modern wine-themed stop on a hilltop path. Narrow roads wind between the vineyards and make good cycling country, though the hills are steep.

It suits wine lovers, couples and small groups who like personal tastings, and combines well with an afternoon exploring the wine roads of Slovenske gorice. Plan transport in advance so that a designated driver can enjoy the day safely, and bring a light jacket for the cellar. Guests are welcomed at the Winery by arrangement. While the hills are quiet most of the year, harvest time is the liveliest.