Cerkev Sv. Treh Kraljev

The Church of the Three Kings, in Slovene Cerkev Sv. Treh Kraljev, is a small pilgrimage church in the hills of Slovenske gorice near Lenart, in the north-east of Slovenia. The dedication is to the Three Kings, the Magi of the Christmas story, whose feast, Epiphany, falls on 6 January. In Slovene tradition, this is the day when groups of children and young people go from house to house dressed as the kings, singing carols, and the doors of homes are marked in chalk with the year and the initials of the three kings, a custom that is still alive in many villages. A church with this dedication is therefore tied to one of the most widespread folk customs of the winter season.

The church is described as late Gothic, a style that lasted in Slovenia into the sixteenth century, and the pointed arches and ribbed vaults characteristic of that period shape the interior. Like most village pilgrimage churches in this region, it is modest in size, with a simple nave, a small chancel and a bell tower, and the walls are plastered and whitewashed. The furnishings are plain, with a main altar and a few side altars, and the atmosphere is one of quiet devotion. Local people come on feast days, and processions and blessings take place at the time of Epiphany.

The setting adds to the appeal. The church stands on a rise, with a view over vineyards, orchards and farmland that is typical of Slovenske gorice, a region of long wooded ridges between the Mura and Drava rivers. Walking paths link the church with the surrounding villages, and the countryside is at its best in spring, when the orchards are in blossom, and in autumn, when the vineyards turn gold. The church is usually open for services, and visitors who wish to see the interior at other times should ask locally.

The church is a good stop on a tour of the area around Lenart. The Parish Church of St. Leonard in the town has a rich interior, the Way of the Cross climbs a nearby hill, and Negova Castle, a moated castle a short drive away, adds a secular note. The region is known for its wine, and the Hiša Joannes Protner Winery and the Wine Fountain Vodole offer tastings. A day in this area suits visitors who like slow travel, quiet churches and wine country scenery.