Vinska klet Colnar

Dolenjska, the Lower Carniola region in southeastern Slovenia, is a landscape of rolling hills dotted with vineyards and small cottages, and wine is a central part of its social life. Vinska klet Colnar is a family winery on the slopes of Trška Gora, the vineyard hill above Novo Mesto, not far from Otočec, and it offers an easy introduction to the wines of the region. The setting alone is worth the trip, with rows of vines rolling down the hill, views over the Krka valley and a scattering of small zidanice, the traditional vineyard cottages where growers store wine and gather with friends.

The wine that defines Dolenjska is Cviček, a light red wine with a distinctive character. It is traditionally a blend of red and white grapes, grown and fermented together, which gives it a pale ruby colour, low alcohol and lively acidity, and a refreshing, slightly tart taste. It is a wine to be drunk young and cool, ideal with the region's hearty food, and it carries a protected status that ties it to the area. A Colnar tasting is a good way to learn what it is about, and the family also makes other wines, including Modra Frankinja, the local name for Blaufränkisch, which produces a deeper, spicier red, along with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, rosé and sparkling wines. The range allows visitors to compare different styles in a single sitting.

A visit usually involves a tasting of several wines accompanied by homemade snacks of local ham, cheese and bread, and the hosts explain how the vineyard is managed, how the wines are made and what makes the region distinctive. The atmosphere is relaxed and informal, and families are welcome. Opening days for walk-in visitors are limited, typically to certain days of the week, with tastings by reservation at other times, so check ahead before you travel. The winery does not provide accommodation, but local inns and vineyard cottages in the area offer meals and rooms, and some local providers rent bicycles, which is a pleasant way to see the vineyards.

The winery fits easily into a trip that includes other places nearby. Grajski Park Otočec and Otočec Castle are a short drive away, Cultural Experiences (Historical and Heritage Tours) cover the region's history, and Outdoor and Adventure Activities include cycling and walking along the Krka. Trška Gora also has the old linden tree and a pilgrimage church.

It suits wine lovers, couples and groups of friends. If you are driving, arrange a designated driver, and pace the tasting. For Dolenjska’s wine culture, this is an easy first stop, and one of Slovenia’s friendliest.