Šutna Street

Šutna is the old main street of Kamnik, the town at the foot of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps, about twenty-five kilometres north of Ljubljana. The street runs through the old centre, and with its narrow plots, arcades and painted house fronts it is one of the most attractive historic streets in the country. Kamnik was a medieval trading town that received its town rights in the early thirteenth century, and Šutna kept its character because the town was never rebuilt on a large scale. Traditional signboards, craft shops and workshops still line the street, giving it a lived-in air that many other old towns have lost.

The street is lined with houses of different periods, many with Gothic or Renaissance foundations and Baroque or later facades in soft colours. Behind the narrow fronts lie courtyards, passages and workshops where craftspeople once worked as tanners, potters, bakers and tradesmen, and a few craft workshops continue the tradition. At the end of the street, the parish church of Mary Immaculate rises with a slender Gothic spire that dominates the skyline of the old town. Along the way there are small museums and cultural stops, among them Maister’s Birthplace, the house of Rudolf Maister, the Slovenian general and poet, who was born in Kamnik in 1874. Maister is remembered for leading the forces that secured Maribor and parts of Štajerska for the new Yugoslav state in 1918 and 1919, and his house is a small museum devoted to his life.

Other sights lie within a few minutes' walk. The Sadnikar Museum holds an eclectic collection of local objects, and the Franciscan monastery has a library with a precious collection of old books. Two castle sites overlook the town, the Mali grad with its Romanesque double chapel and the ruins of Stari grad above, and both give views over the roofs and the Alps. A craft brewery and cafes along the way offer a chance for refreshment, and a guided walking tour of Kamnik is available for those who want the stories behind the buildings.

Kamnik is also a gateway to the mountains. The cable car to Velika Planina, a high plateau with a traditional herders' settlement of shingle-roofed huts, leaves from the valley near the town, and the Kamniška Bistrica valley is a starting point for hikes. A walk along Šutna therefore pairs naturally with an outing to the Alps.

The street suits history lovers, photographers, families and anyone who enjoys wandering an old town. It is pedestrian friendly and takes under an hour to walk, but with museum visits it fills a half day. Check opening times for individual museums, since small venues keep seasonal hours.