Šmarješke Toplice Lesen Bazen

Šmarješke Toplice is a small spa town in Dolenjska, in southeastern Slovenia, set in a green valley of vineyards and woods a few kilometres from Novo Mesto, and its thermal waters have been used for bathing for a very long time. The warm mineral water rises from the ground at a pleasant temperature, around the level of a comfortable lukewarm bath, and the town grew up around that spring. The lesen bazen, which simply means the wooden pool, is the part of the spa that people remember because it feels so different from the tiled pools and slides of a modern wellness centre. It is an old-fashioned pool built of timber, in the manner of the bathing houses of earlier centuries, and getting into it is a little like stepping back in time.

A wooden pool has a character of its own. The planks are made of oak or another durable hardwood, joined and sealed so that they hold the water, and the wood takes on a warm, dark colour as it ages. The thermal water flows through the pool, so that fresh warm water is constantly renewed, and it comes from the spring that feeds the spa. Many people find the feel of the wood under the hand and the soft, natural look of the pool more pleasant than concrete and tile. The water is mineral rich, as is usual with thermal springs in this region, and local tradition values it for its relaxing effect on muscles and joints, though such claims are a matter of belief rather than established science, and visitors with medical conditions should ask their doctor before long soaking. The experience is quiet and slow, and a short soak is as much a pleasure for the atmosphere as for the warmth.

The pool belongs to the wider spa complex of Šmarješke Toplice, which offers indoor and outdoor pools, treatments, and sports and fitness classes such as water gymnastics. In summer, an outdoor pool and a garden bistro are usually open for refreshments and sunbathing. Because arrangements change with the season and with maintenance, check with the spa before you travel to confirm whether the wooden pool is open, what the entrance price is and whether it is part of a day ticket or a separate charge. Bring a towel and swimming costume, and follow the rules about showering before entering.

The town is a good base for exploring the countryside nearby. Klevevška Toplica, the hypothermal spring, the Radulja Gorge, the Crystal Valley and the Izvir cvička, the Wine Fountain, are all within a short walk or ride, the House of Living Heritage presents local traditions, and the Vineyards, Meadows, and Forests of the area are crisscrossed with paths.

It suits spa guests, couples and anyone looking for a restful hour. Šmarješke Toplice Lesen Bazen is a quiet corner of Slovenia’s spa tradition, and the Lesen Bazen, the wooden pool, is best enjoyed slowly. While the water is gentle, the Slovenian habit of long soaks suits it.