Santomas

Istria is the largest peninsula on the Adriatic, and its Slovenian part, a narrow strip of coast and hills between Trieste and Croatia, has a long winegrowing tradition that goes back to Roman times. The soils of the hills, made of flysch, layers of sandstone and marl, retain moisture in summer, and the climate is warm and dry with sea breezes, which suits the grape varieties of the area. Two names dominate: the white Malvasia, which yields rich, aromatic and sometimes slightly oily wines, and the red Refošk, known elsewhere as Refosco, a dark, tannic and acidic grape that produces deeply coloured wines with notes of plum and blackberry. Santomas is one of the producers associated with this tradition, and its wines are known from the area around Korte and Izola.

A visit to a winery of this kind follows a familiar pattern, though each estate has its own character. Guests are shown the vineyards, where rows of vines climb the slopes among olive trees, and the cellar, where the wine is fermented and aged in steel tanks and wooden barrels, and the winemaker or a host explains the choices that shape the final product. Many Istrian growers have moved in recent years toward lower yields and gentler handling, and some make Malvasia with skin contact to give it more structure and an amber colour, and Refošk, aged in oak, can be remarkably long-lived. Tastings give a chance to compare these styles, and wines are often matched with local olive oil, cheeses, cured meats such as pršut and fresh bread. Tasting rooms and terraces with views across the hills are typical, so the visit is as much about the scenery as the wine.

Booking in advance is generally recommended for tours and tastings, and opening times vary with the season and with the harvest, which takes place in September and October. Visitors who plan to taste several wines should arrange a driver or a taxi, since the roads of the hills are narrow and winding. In cooler months, some estates close or reduce hours, so it is wise to check before setting out.

The village of Korte and the surrounding area have much else to offer. The Beautiful views over the Gulf of Trieste are among the best on this stretch of coast, Gostilna Korte serves Istrian food, Olive Oil Morgan presents a family olive estate, and the Predor Šalet is a tunnel on the old Parenzana railway, now a path for walkers and cyclists. Hiking and Camping Tours add options for those who want to explore on foot. Spring and autumn are particularly pleasant seasons for a visit.