Olive Oil Morgan

Korte is a village on a ridge in the hills above Izola, in Slovenian Istria, where olive trees have been grown for centuries. The Slovene coast is at the northern edge of the olive-growing world, and the groves here, on terraced hillsides of flysch soil, receive plenty of sunshine from the Adriatic and enough cool air at night to give the oil a fresh, green character. Olive oil is one of the key products of the region, and many families own a few trees and press their own oil, as well as selling to visitors. Olive Oil Morgan is one such family estate in Korte, dedicated to producing extra virgin oil in the traditional manner.

The Istrian olive oil tradition is distinctive. The most important native variety is Istrska belica, a hardy tree that produces a spicy, bitter, grassy oil with notes of artichoke, almond and fresh herbs, and growers often combine it with other varieties such as Leccino and Maurino to balance the flavour. Olives are picked by hand or with small rakes in autumn, usually from October to November, and pressed within hours to preserve their freshness. Cold pressing, in which the temperature is kept low during the extraction, retains the aromas and the polyphenols that give good oil its pungency and its health benefits. A fresh, high-quality oil tickles the back of the throat and can cause a cough, which is considered a mark of freshness.

Visiting an estate like this is a good way to learn how to taste oil. Guests are typically shown the grove and the press and are given small samples in glasses, warming the glass in the hand, smelling it, then sipping it with an intake of air to spread the flavour. They learn to distinguish fruity, bitter and pungent notes, and to match oils with food, such as bread, tomatoes, fish and simple salads. The family shares stories about the harvest, the weather and the challenges of olive growing, which can be demanding in years of frost or drought, and bottles are available to buy as souvenirs. Visits are normally by appointment.

The village of Korte is a pleasant place to extend the visit. It offers the Beautiful views that open across the Gulf of Trieste, the Gostilna Korte inn serves Istrian dishes, Santomas is a known name in Istrian wine, and the tunnel at Predor Šalet is a feature of the old Parenzana railway, now a path for walkers and cyclists. Hiking and Camping Tours in the area are also available. The best time to visit is autumn, during the harvest, though the groves are attractive in spring when the new leaves are fresh.