Gostilna Korte

Korte is a small village on the hills above Izola, in Slovenian Istria, at around two hundred and fifty metres above the sea, with views over olive groves and vineyards toward the Gulf of Trieste. The coast below is crowded in summer with beach resorts, but the hinterland of Istria is quiet and rural, with terraced slopes, stone houses and narrow roads, and Korte is a good example of that other side of the region. A gostilna, the Slovene word for an inn, is the natural place to eat in a village like this, and Gostilna Korte is one of the places where visitors can taste the local cooking. Information about the inn is limited, so opening days and menus should be checked directly.

Istrian cooking sits between the Mediterranean and Central Europe, and it uses the produce of the sea and of the hills. Typical dishes include fresh fish and seafood from the Adriatic, home-made pasta such as fuži, a twisted pasta served with meat sauce or truffle, soups made with beans and vegetables, grilled meats, game and cured pork, including Istrian prosciutto. Olive oil is used generously, and the region produces some of the best in Slovenia, while the white Malvazija and the dark Refošk are the traditional wines, which accompany the food. A gostilna of this type usually offers generous portions at fair prices in a relaxed setting, with terrace tables in warm weather.

The village is also a place for walking and cycling. Paths and quiet roads lead through olive groves, vineyards and woods, with views of the sea and the hills, and the old railway line of the Parenzana, which once linked Trieste with Poreč, passes through the area and is now a popular cycle route, including the Šalet tunnel near Izola, known locally as Predor Šalet. Walking and camping tours in the countryside are arranged by local operators, and the area has producers of olive oil and wine, among them the olive oil producer Morgan and the Santomas wine estate.

Izola, a few minutes down the hill, has a harbour, a marina and an old town, so a day can combine the coast and the hills. The best times for a visit are spring and autumn, when the countryside is green and the weather is mild, though the terrace is a pleasure on summer evenings.

The inn suits couples, families, cyclists and food lovers who want to see the hinterland. Booking is wise at weekends and in summer, and it helps to ask in advance about opening days, since small village inns often close on one day of the week.