Praetorian Palace

The Praetorian Palace, or Pretorska palača, forms one side of Tito Square, the main public space of Koper, and it is the best surviving symbol of Koper’s centuries under the Republic of Venice. Koper, then known by its Venetian name Capodistria, was an important port and administrative centre on the Adriatic, and the palace was the seat of the podestà, the governor sent from Venice, together with the town's Council of Nobles. Its core is medieval, but the building you see today is largely the result of rebuilding and enlargement in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and the facade is a layered mix of Venetian Gothic and Renaissance elements, with later touches.

The front rewards a slow look. Stone coats of arms and plaques of the successive governors cover the wall, and the Lion of St Mark, the emblem of Venice, appears among the carved decoration. An open staircase and a balcony on the facade overlook the square. The ornament speaks of a government that liked to advertise its authority in stone, and that was a common habit in Venetian towns along the coast. Over the years the palace suffered fires, repairs and alterations, which is why the elevations combine different styles.

Today the building still has a civic role. The city administration uses part of the palace, and visitors can find the Tourist Information Centre here, which makes it a convenient first stop in town. Parts of the interior with decorated halls and the council chambers can be seen on guided visits when they are scheduled, so ask at the information centre about current times and conditions. Some rooms are used for ceremonies, including weddings.

The surroundings are part of the attraction. On the same square stand the cathedral with its bell tower, the loggia and other public buildings, and the whole space has an unmistakably Italianate feel, with cafes and a relaxed pace. A short walk away is the Muda Gate, one of the surviving gates of the old town walls, and the narrow streets of the old centre lead from here down to the harbour.

The palace suits anyone who wants to understand why Koper looks more Venetian than most places in Slovenia, and it is one of Slovenia’s finest civic buildings. Even if you do not go inside, a few minutes studying the facade from Tito Square gives a good lesson in how Venice presented itself, and the best light for photographing it is usually in the morning.