Mihelič

Ptuj is the oldest town in Slovenia, and the Mihelič Gallery is one of the quieter cultural addresses in its old centre, in the lanes that run down toward the Drava River. The town has a long record of urban life. As Poetovio it was an important Roman colony on the Amber Road, and in the civil war of the year 69 the legion stationed here threw its support behind Vespasian. Centuries later Ptuj became a medieval trading town beneath a hilltop castle, and the layers of Roman stone, Gothic churches and Baroque house fronts give the town its character. A small gallery in this setting makes a pleasant addition to a day on foot.

The gallery is an exhibition space, and its programme consists of changing displays rather than a permanent collection. Shows in a venue of this kind usually feature contemporary art, local and regional artists, themed exhibitions and occasionally material from the town's own history, and the content changes through the year. Because the programme is not fixed, it makes sense to check what is on before planning a visit, and to ask at the entrance or at the tourist office in the main square for current details. Opening arrangements are seasonal and can change, so it is also wise to confirm times in advance rather than assume a fixed schedule.

The gallery sits among sights that deserve time in their own right. The Orpheus Monument, a Roman tombstone from the second century that stands on the main square, is one of the best known Roman monuments in the country. Ptuj Castle looks over the town from its hill and houses museum collections, including the famous carnival masks of the Kurenti. The Minorite Monastery is a quiet complex with a Gothic church and a cloister, and the remains of Mithraic temples in the Roman town, known as Mithraeum I and III, show the cult of Mithras that was popular among soldiers and traders. Beneath the old town are the cellars of one of the oldest wine producers in Slovenia, where local wines age in long vaulted passages.

A stroll along the Drava and through the old lanes offers cafes, shops and views over the river, and the carnival of Kurentovanje fills the town with life each year before Lent. Ptuj also has a thermal spa on the edge of town, so it combines culture, wine and relaxation.

The gallery suits art lovers, those who like small museums and visitors who want a break from the larger sights. A visit takes less than an hour. Combine it with a walk through the old town, a coffee near the river and a visit to the castle, and check the programme before you go.