Kurentovanje carnival

Kurentovanje is the great carnival of Ptuj, Slovenia’s oldest town, held each year at Shrovetide, in the days before Lent. Its stars are the Kurenti, masked figures in thick sheepskin who leap and stamp through the streets with large cowbells swinging at their hips. The costume is unmistakable: a tall furry hood with horns and coloured ribbons, a red tongue lolling from the mask, and a wooden club in the hand. The tradition belongs to the villages of the Ptuj Field and the Haloze hills of Štajerska, and the Kurenti are now recognised by UNESCO on its Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

The folk belief behind the figures is simple and old. By making a racket, jumping high and moving from house to house, the Kurenti are meant to drive away winter and evil spirits and to bring fertility and a good harvest. In villages the rounds still follow the traditional pattern of visiting farms, where the group is given food and drink, and their visit is thought to bring luck. The figures are also called Koranti in the region.

The organised carnival in Ptuj grew from these rural customs and dates from the early 1960s, so it is a modern festival built on a much older ritual. Over about ten days it fills the town with processions of masks from many parts of Slovenia and abroad, a children's carnival, concerts, balls and street stalls. The central moment is the big parade on the final weekend, when Kurenti from many villages march through the old town along with floats and groups in other traditional masks. Ptuj itself, with its castle above the Drava, the old town tower and the historic centre, is a handsome stage for it.

Visitors can see other sides of the tradition outside the carnival period. The region's museums and the castle hold collections of masks and costumes, and local guides explain how a Kurent costume is made, using sheepskin, bells and a great deal of weight. A full costume can be heavy and hot, and the wearers are proud of the work involved.

The carnival suits families, photographers and anyone interested in living folklore, and it is best approached with a sense of fun. Accommodation in Ptuj fills quickly in the carnival days, so it helps to plan ahead, and the atmosphere in the smaller villages of the Haloze and the Ptuj Field can be more intimate than the main parade. The dates move each year with Easter, so check the current programme before travelling.