Gorjanci Hills

The Gorjanci are a long, forested ridge running south-east of Novo Mesto, along the frontier between Slovenia and Croatia, and they are the highest and wildest hills in Lower Carniola. Across the border the same range continues as Žumberak, a nature park on the Croatian side, and the two together form a single upland with a shared history. The highest point on the Slovene side is Trdinov Vrh, at about 1,180 metres, and from the ridge the ground falls in broad, wooded slopes toward the Krka valley on one side and toward the Croatian plain on the other. The hills are easily reached from Novo Mesto, yet they feel remote, and they are a favourite for local walkers.

The natural character of the Gorjanci is dominated by beech forest. Vast stands of beech, some of them old and tall, cover the slopes, with fir and sycamore mixed in, and the forests provide habitat for deer, wild boar and a variety of birds. The hills are also a source of water: many springs rise on the slopes, and the Novo Mesto area draws part of its drinking water from them. The best known is the spring at Gospodična, which has a reputation for sweet and healthy water and is the destination of many walks. Paths pass through meadows, clearings and old forest roads, and signposted routes link the main huts, with Gospodična and Miklavž among the lodges where walkers can rest and eat.

The hills are also steeped in story. The nineteenth-century writer Janez Trdina, who lived in Novo Mesto, collected the folk tales of the Gorjanci and published them as stories of fairies, giants, hidden treasure and strange healers, so that the hills became a landscape of legend as well as a place for walking. Much of the history of the area is bound up with the border, and in the sixteenth century refugees from the Ottoman advance, known as Uskoks, settled on these slopes and left a legacy in place names, customs and religion that is still visible in the villages.

The lower slopes are covered with vineyards, which produce cviček, the light red wine of Dolenjska, and small wooden cellars dot the hillsides. Trška Gora Hill, with its old linden tree and many wine cottages, is one of the best-known viewpoints, and Gospodična Mountain Hut and Trdinov Vrh are the main goals for walkers. The Krka river below offers Kayak and boat tours and Swimming locations in summer. The Gorjanci are good for walking from spring to autumn, and in winter the higher paths may be snowy and icy, so check conditions before setting out.