Trška Gora Hill

Trška Gora is a hill on the edge of Novo Mesto, in Lower Carniola, and it is one of the best-known places for tasting cviček, the light red wine that is the signature drink of the region. The hill rises to roughly 430 metres above the Krka valley, and its slopes are covered with vineyards and dotted with small wooden and brick cottages called zidanice, where growers press their grapes, store their wine and entertain friends. In summer and early autumn, the cottages are lively at weekends, and visitors who walk the lanes between them can often find a cellar open for tasting.

Cviček is made from a mixture of red and white grape varieties grown together in the same vineyard, which gives it a low alcohol level, a pale ruby colour and a tart, refreshing taste. It is considered the wine of the Dolenjska region and has protected status, and locals drink it young, with simple food such as bread, cured ham and cheese. The hill has been used for winegrowing since the Middle Ages, and the arrangement of the cottages, with their steep roofs and small cellars, preserves the character of a traditional vineyard landscape that has changed little over centuries.

At the top stands a pilgrimage church dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, with a bell tower that is visible from far across the valley, and next to it a very old linden tree, said to be about four hundred years old, with a trunk of impressive size. The linden has long been a meeting place for local people, and its shade is popular in summer. Monuments and benches on the hill honour local figures, among them the accordion player Lojze Slak, a much-loved figure in Slovene folk music, and symbols of the cviček tradition, including a bench for the Cviček Princess, the wine queen of the season.

From the church terrace, there are views across the Krka valley and Novo Mesto to the wooded Gorjanci hills, with the castles of Otočec and the surrounding area in the landscape. The hill is an easy walk from the town centre or can be reached by car, and it is a pleasant half-day outing. Paths continue to the Gorjanci, where Gospodična Mountain Hut and Trdinov Vrh await, while the Krka below is used for Kayak and boat tours and Swimming locations in summer. Visit in the afternoon, when the light is warm, and bring cash for tastings.