Church Of Saint John The Baptist

The Church of St John the Baptist stands beside the stone bridge at Ribčev Laz, on the eastern shore of Lake Bohinj, at the point where the lake's outflow becomes the Sava Bohinjka river. It is one of the best-known churches in Slovenia, not because of its size, which is modest, but because of its setting: the white walls and slim bell tower reflect in the lake, the old arched bridge crosses the water in front, and the wall of the Julian Alps rises behind. It appears on countless postcards, and many visitors regard the view as the classic scene of Bohinj.

The church is medieval, and its structure reflects several periods. The oldest parts are Romanesque, and a Gothic chancel was added in the fifteenth century, when a great many churches in the Alpine lands were rebuilt in the new style, and later alterations introduced Baroque features such as altars and furnishings. Inside, the walls preserve some of the finest medieval wall paintings in Slovenia. Frescoes from the late Middle Ages cover large areas, showing scenes from the life of St John the Baptist, including the story of his beheading, along with biblical episodes such as the offerings of Cain and Abel. The paintings are notable for their lively figures, expressive faces and warm colours, and they give a vivid picture of how medieval craftsmen taught the Bible to people who could not read.

Visiting the interior is a quiet experience. The church is small, and the light enters through narrow windows, so the paintings are seen in a soft glow. Opening arrangements vary by season, and the church is often open in the summer months and at weekends, but visitors should check, and should dress respectfully, as it is still a place of worship. Outside, the lake shore offers a place to sit and watch the water, and the surrounding village of Ribčev Laz has cafes, shops and boat rentals.

Ribčev Laz is also the main gateway to the lake. The statue of Zlatorog, the golden-horned chamois of Bohinj legend, stands nearby, a Boat across the lake runs from the pier, and paths lead along the shore. From here, visitors can walk to Slap Savica Waterfall, ride up the Vogel cable car or follow the lake path. The church is at its most attractive early in the day, before the crowds arrive, and in the evening when the light turns the mountains pink.