Weinhof Platzer

Goričko is the hilly, forested corner of northeastern Slovenia where the country meets Austria and Hungary, and it is one of the quietest and greenest parts of the country. The landscape is a patchwork of low ridges, small fields, orchards and woodland, protected as the Goričko Landscape Park, with villages of low houses and small churches along the valleys. Grape growing has a long history on the south-facing slopes, and small family wineries still make wine for local consumption and for visitors. Weinhof Platzer, near the village of Grad, is one of them, and its name, a German word for a wine farm, reflects the cultural mixture of a border region where German, Hungarian and Slovene influences have long overlapped.

A visit to a family winery in Goričko is a different experience from a large commercial cellar. Guests are usually welcomed by the people who grow the grapes and make the wine, walk through the vineyard to see how the vines are trained on the slopes, and visit the cellar where the wine ferments and ages. Tastings tend to be relaxed and personal, with the hosts explaining the varieties they grow, the character of their vineyard and how the vintage has turned out. White wines are the mainstay of the region, since the cool nights and the warm days of the Pannonian climate suit varieties such as Laški Rizling, Rhine Riesling and Sauvignon, and some producers also make red wines and sparkling wines. Small snacks of cured meat, cheese and bread usually accompany the tasting, in the Slovenian way, and some families offer a terrace where you can sit and look over the vines.

The scenery adds to the occasion. Grad Castle, one of the largest castle complexes in Slovenia, stands on a hill above the village, and its great bulk dominates the landscape for miles around. The castle has a long history and a large park, and it is well worth a visit in its own right, so a tasting at the winery pairs naturally with a walk up to the castle. The walking and cycling routes of the Goričko Landscape Park pass nearby, and the region is known for its slow pace, its quiet roads and its storks.

Other places for wine in the area include the Gesamtsteirische Vinothek, Posestvo Gjerkeš and Winery Marof. Opening times at small wineries are not fixed, so always contact the winery in advance to arrange a tasting, and note that most prefer groups to book.

It suits wine lovers, couples and cyclists who like to combine a ride with a glass of local wine. If you plan to drive, arrange a designated driver. Spring and autumn offer the best light and colour in the vineyards. Slovenia’s northeastern border country is easy to overlook, and a tasting here shows why that is a mistake.