Vinag Wine Cellar

The Vinag Wine Cellar lies beneath Freedom Square, Trg svobode, in the centre of Maribor in northeastern Slovenia, and it is one of the largest and best-known historic wine cellars in Central Europe. The cellar is a maze of vaulted tunnels dug into the ground, running for around two kilometres, and it is cool, dark and still, the conditions that wine needs to rest and mature. Maribor sits in the middle of the wine country of Štajerska, a region with a thousand-year tradition of viticulture, and the cellar is a reminder that the town was long a trading and storage centre for the wines of the surrounding hills.

The cellar grew as the town did. It was built in the nineteenth century, when Maribor became an important junction on the railway between Vienna and Trieste, and wine merchants needed large storage space close to the new rail connections. The vaults were extended over the decades as the trade expanded, and they became a standard place for ageing the wines of the Slovene lands. Today the cellar is operated by the Vinag winery, and it holds a vast quantity of wine in barrels and bottles. Among the sights are very large oak barrels that have been in place for well over a century, racks of bottled wines from earlier decades and an archive where old vintages are kept. The walls are covered with a dark mould that thrives in the damp, cool air and helps to maintain the cellar's microclimate, a feature that many visitors find striking.

Tours are guided, and they walk visitors through the passages, explaining how wine is stored and matured and the history of the cellar and the region. The visit usually ends with a tasting of several wines, with options that vary from a basic selection to a longer tasting paired with snacks such as cured meats and cheeses. The cool temperature underground is the same throughout the year, so a jacket is advisable even on a hot day. Prices, tour times and what is included vary, so it is wise to book in advance and to check the current offer. The cellar is also available for private events, tastings and company gatherings, which have become a popular use of the atmospheric vaults.

The cellar is a good complement to a stroll through Maribor, where the Old Vine in Lent, the castle, the cathedral and the riverside are all close at hand, and where wine bars and cellars in the old town offer more tastings. The surrounding Štajerska wine roads lead through hills of vineyards to farms and cellars.

The cellar suits wine lovers, history fans and groups looking for an unusual venue. Wear a layer, comfortable shoes and keep in mind that the passages are damp.