Plague Column (Kužno znamenje)

The Plague Column, Kužno znamenje in Slovene, stands at the centre of Maribor’s Main Square, Glavni trg, where it forms the focal point of the old town. Monuments of this kind were raised across the Habsburg lands in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, as thanks for the end of epidemics and as a plea for protection against them. Maribor suffered severe outbreaks of plague in the late seventeenth century, and the citizens commemorated the survivors and the victims with a column in the middle of the market place.

The present monument is a Baroque work. A first column was put up in the 1680s, soon after the epidemic, and the form we see today was created in the 1740s by the sculptor Joseph Straub of Graz, who also made other Baroque sculptures in Styria. It is considered one of the finest works of its kind in the region. A tall column rises from a richly carved pedestal, and at the top stands a statue of the Virgin Mary, the protector invoked in times of trouble. Around the base are figures of saints associated with protection against plague, among them Saint Sebastian and Saint Roch, shown in expressive poses with the drapery and gestures typical of the Baroque style. A low fence surrounds the monument.

The column belongs to a square that has been the centre of Maribor's public life for centuries. Around it stand the Renaissance Town Hall, with its arcaded front and tower, and old burgher houses with Baroque and later facades, and in earlier times markets and processions took place here. The monument is the best place to start a walk through the old town, since the Drava River and the old quarter of Lent are just a few minutes away, and Maribor Castle and the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist are also close at hand.

Looking closely at the column rewards patience. The statues are carved with a lot of detail, including faces, drapery and the attributes that identify each saint, and the contrast between the dark stone and the gilded details on the Virgin changes with the light. At the base, the inscriptions and symbols are worth a look. In the evening the square is lit, and the column stands out against the buildings.

The Plague Column suits history lovers, art enthusiasts, photographers and anyone passing through the centre of Maribor. It is free to see at any time, and it combines easily with a coffee on the square, a visit to the Town Hall and a walk along the Drava. The best times are early morning and late afternoon, when the light is warm and the square is calm.