Slovenian countryside (exploration)

Brestanica is a small town on the left bank of the Sava, in the Posavje region of eastern Slovenia, between Krško and Sevnica, and the countryside around it is a quiet mix of river valley, vineyard hills and woods. The Sava is the longest river in Slovenia, and here it flows between low hills in a broad valley, with hydroelectric dams and reservoirs, quiet backwaters and meadows where herons and storks hunt. The land away from the river rises into wooded ridges and hills covered with small vineyards, orchards and farms, and the whole area has a gentle, lived-in character that rewards slow travel by bicycle or on foot.

The main landmark is Rajhenburg Castle, which stands on a rock above the town and the river. The castle has medieval origins and a long and unusual history. In the late nineteenth century, it became a Trappist monastery, the first of its kind in the Slovene lands, and the monks lived by prayer and manual work, running a farm and producing food, among them cheese. During the Second World War, the German occupiers turned the castle into a collection camp for Slovenes expelled from the region, and a museum there now tells the story of the expelled. The building has a Romanesque chapel and later additions, and its grounds give views over the valley and the surrounding hills. Visiting the castle gives a sense of how closely religion, politics and everyday life have been intertwined in the history of this border region.

Brestanica is also known as a place of pilgrimage. The Church of Our Lady of Lourdes, with its grotto modelled on the famous shrine in France, draws pilgrims from across Slovenia, particularly on Marian feast days, and its quiet grounds are open to all. Walking paths link the church, the castle and the town, and small roads lead into the hills, where farms sell wine, fruit, honey and cured meat. In spring the orchards are in blossom, in summer picnics by the river are popular, and in autumn the vineyards turn colour and the harvest begins.

For food, the town and its surroundings offer simple but good restaurants, such as Gostišče Senica and Restavracija A3, serving regional dishes that include river fish, roast meats and local wine, and the Brestanica river area is pleasant for a stroll. The region is easy to combine with other places in Posavje, including the old town of Brežice, the castle of Sevnica and the spa resorts of the lower Sava. The best seasons are spring and autumn, when the weather is mild and the colours at their best.