Pohorje Mountains

Pohorje is the broad, forested range that rises south of the Drava between Maribor, Slovenj Gradec and the Dravinja valley, in the Štajerska region of northeastern Slovenia. It is the last great upland of the eastern Alps before the Pannonian plain, a long, rounded massif that reaches about 1,500 metres at its highest points, among them Rogla and Črni vrh. It is quite unlike the Julian Alps or the Kamnik Alps: there are no bare limestone walls, but rather gently rolling ridges, dark spruce forest and open clearings, built of crystalline rocks such as granite and tonalite that give the soil an acid character. The cool, damp climate encourages peat bogs, mountain streams and a distinctive plant life, and the mountains are among the most beloved leisure areas for the people of Maribor and Celje.

Pohorje is a year-round destination. In winter the ski areas of Mariborsko Pohorje, which lies directly above the city, and Rogla receive reliable snow, and Maribor hosts a World Cup women's alpine ski race known as the Golden Fox on its home slope. Cross-country trails, snowshoe routes and sledging runs add variety. In summer the ridge is crossed by marked trails and forest roads, and the long-distance paths make multi-day hikes possible, while mountain bikers use the forest tracks and downhill trails, with a bike race held at Pohorje. The cable car that climbs from Maribor to the ridge brings visitors directly from the city to the forest in a few minutes, and the area is a favourite place for cooling off on hot days.

Several features stand out. The treetop walk on Rogla is a wooden path raised above the forest floor, leading to a tall spiral tower with views over the unbroken woods, and a lookout tower at Bolfenk offers another panorama. The peat bog lakes of Lovrenc, a protected area with a boardwalk, the Šumik waterfalls and the primeval forest reserves of Lobnica and Šumik show the wild side of the mountains, and old mountain farms and huts serve simple local food, such as the sweet Pohorje omelette, a dish of eggs, cream and berries that has become a regional symbol. The mountains also have a history of glassmaking and timber working, and traces of old glass furnaces remain in the forest.

Travel arrangements are straightforward. The mountains can be reached by road from Maribor and Celje, and cable cars and buses operate in season, though schedules change, so check ahead. Weather on the ridge can be cool and wet, so layers and rain gear are sensible.

The mountains suit families, walkers, cyclists, skiers and anyone who likes forest scenery. Early autumn, with colour in the beech and larch and clear air, is a particularly pleasant time.