Pier of Tastes

The Pier of Tastes, in Slovene Pomol okusov, is a food and wine event held on the north pier of Izola, the old fishing town on the Slovenian Istrian coast. For a few days or evenings each year, the long stone quay that stretches out into the Gulf of Trieste becomes an open-air dining room, with stalls and tables set up along its length and visitors strolling from one counter to the next. The idea is to showcase the cooking of the area, from the fish landed in the harbour to the olive oil, vegetables, truffles and wines of the hills behind, and to bring local restaurants and winemakers together in one place.

The setting does much of the work. The pier runs out from the edge of the old town, and from its end you look back at the red roofs and bell tower of Izola, along the curve of the bay and across the water toward Piran and the Italian shore. At the tip stands a small lighthouse, known locally as the Svetilnik, and the white limestone cliffs known as Bele skale rise nearby, glowing in the evening sun. As the day cools, lanterns come on, music plays and the pier fills with people, giving a relaxed Mediterranean atmosphere that is typical of the coast.

What you eat depends on the year, because the stallholders change, but the style follows Istrian tradition. Expect small plates of fresh seafood such as sardines, anchovies, squid and shellfish, handmade pasta with local sauces, which might include truffles or wild asparagus in season, and modern versions of classic dishes prepared by restaurant chefs. Local wines, including the white Malvasia and the dark Refošk and Teran, are poured alongside, and olive oil from the surrounding groves is often on show. Many organisers pay attention to seasonal produce and to reducing waste, making a point of local sourcing.

The event is held at set times, typically in spring and autumn, so it is wise to check the dates in advance and to arrive early, since the pier gets busy as evening draws near. Izola has plenty to see before or after: Izola Marina and the Inner harbor are a short walk away, Izolana - The House of Sea tells the story of the town's fishing past, and the Parks and beaches provide places to swim and rest. Many of the Michelin-awarded restaurants and the Kaštelir Archaeological Park and Simonov zaliv Archaeological Park are close by. Come hungry, and take cash in case of stalls that do not take cards.