Peaceful Campsite by the River

Dolenjske Toplice is a small spa town in the valley of the Sušica, in Lower Carniola, in the south-east of Slovenia, and a campsite by the river offers a simple, low-key way to stay in the area. The Sušica is a modest stream that runs out of the hills of Kočevski Rog and joins the Krka further on, and in the town its banks are shaded by trees and edged with meadows. A campsite in such a setting appeals to people who prefer to be close to the water, to hear the stream at night and to wake up in the open air, and it is a good choice for families, cyclists and walkers who want a base without the cost of a hotel.

Camping in this part of Slovenia is generally informal and friendly. Pitches for tents and caravans are laid out on grass beside the water, with trees providing shade, and there are usually basic facilities such as toilets, showers and a place to cook or wash up, though the details differ from site to site and should be checked in advance. In the quiet season, the campsite is peaceful, with few other guests and a feeling of being almost alone in the countryside, while in July and August it becomes livelier, with families and groups arriving from Slovenia and abroad. Mornings are the best time to enjoy the river, when mist rises and birds sing in the trees, and in warm weather the water is pleasant for paddling.

The real advantage of the site is its position. The thermal baths and pools of the spa are within walking distance, so campers can visit them for a few hours and then return to the quiet of the river, and the town has shops, restaurants and a few cafes for supplies and meals. Walking and cycling routes start from the edge of town and lead into the forests and hills around, with trails of different lengths. The Divji Potok Creek Circular Hiking Trail follows a stream through woodland, the Wooden Bridge Over the Sušica Stream is a picturesque stop in town, and Devil's Tower, a Baroque garden pavilion, is a short walk away.

Campers who want to explore more can use bicycles or electric mountain bikes, which can be rented locally, to reach other places in Lower Carniola, including the castle of Otočec, the Pleterje Charterhouse and the wine villages of the hills. The Craft Beer Scene gives a modern flavour to the evenings. The best months for camping are late spring and early autumn, when the weather is mild and the crowds are smaller. Check opening dates, prices and booking arrangements with the site before arriving, as these vary with the season.