Neboticnik

Nebotičnik, whose name means skyscraper, stands at the top of Slovenska cesta in the centre of Ljubljana, on the corner where Štefanova ulica meets the main avenue, a few minutes' walk from Prešeren Square. It was completed in 1933, designed by the architect Vladimir Šubic, and at about seventy metres it was among the tallest buildings in Central Europe of its day. A skyscraper in a small provincial capital caused argument at the time, and its slender, stepped tower with a rounded corner and a crown of terraces became a symbol of the modern city, one of the best examples of Art Deco and interwar modernism in the region.

The building was conceived as a commercial and residential block, with offices, shops and flats, and its form reflects the optimism of the early 1930s. The facade is smooth and light, broken by rows of windows and by horizontal bands that emphasise its height, and the stepped crown gives the top a sculpted look. Inside there were modern amenities for the time, among them a lift, and parts of the original interior and fittings have survived. Over the decades it has served various purposes, passed through periods of neglect and was renovated, and today it is again a lively part of the city, with offices, flats and a popular cafe at the top.

The main reason most visitors come is the view. A lift carries guests to the upper floors, where a cafe and a terrace give a panorama over the whole city. From the terrace you look out over the red roofs of the old town, the Ljubljanica with its bridges, the castle on its hill, the green mass of Tivoli Park and the wooded slopes of the Šmarna Gora, with the Kamnik-Savinja Alps and the Karavanke on the horizon on a clear day. The light is best at sunset and in the evening, when the city's lights begin to come on, and the terrace is a favourite place for a drink. A visit to the terrace is usually free of any separate charge when you buy something at the cafe, and the opening hours are long, though they are best checked before going.

The building is accessible for visitors with reduced mobility, and the interior preserves some Art Deco details, including the original style of the lift. Its central position makes it easy to include in a walk through the city, and it combines well with a visit to the Triple Bridge, the market and the castle.

Nebotičnik suits architecture enthusiasts, couples and anyone who wants a high viewpoint without a climb. Clear days are best, and a table at sunset should be booked ahead in summer.