Museum of Contemporary Art Metelkova

The Museum of Contemporary Art Metelkova, known by its Slovene initials MSUM, is housed in a former military barracks on the edge of Ljubljana's old town, in a complex of buildings that was built in the late nineteenth century for the Austro-Hungarian army and later used by the Yugoslav army. After Slovenia became independent in 1991, the barracks were abandoned, and the site developed in two directions at once: part of it was taken over by artists and activists, who turned it into the autonomous cultural zone known as Metelkova mesto, and part of it was preserved for institutional use, with the museum opening in the building at the edge of the complex in the early 2010s. The two sit side by side, and the contrast is a good illustration of how Ljubljana has dealt with its past.

The museum is operated as part of the Moderna galerija, the national institution for modern and contemporary art, and it presents contemporary art in a building that has been adapted to the purpose, with a spacious interior and good natural light. Two collections are of particular note. One is Arteast 2000+, an international collection of art from Eastern Europe, which brings together works by artists from the former socialist countries and presents a chapter in art history that is less well known in the West than the Western canon. The other is the national collection of contemporary Slovene art, assembled by the Moderna galerija and displayed in a changing sequence. Alongside the collections, the museum hosts temporary exhibitions of Slovene and international artists, many of them installations, video works and projects that invite visitors to take part.

The museum also has a library and research facilities, and it organises talks, workshops and events for the public. The programme is serious and thoughtful, and visitors who are interested in contemporary art will find plenty to engage with, while those who are new to it might find the exhibitions challenging, though staff are generally happy to explain. The building is designed to be accessible to people with limited mobility and to visitors with visual impairments, and facilities such as a shop and a cafe are available. Opening times and ticket prices vary, and the museum is usually closed on Mondays and public holidays, so it is wise to check the website before going.

The museum fits into a visit to the surrounding area, where the Abandoned Military Barracks (art squat) offer a very different experience of contemporary culture, with graffiti, studios and clubs. The old town is within walking distance, with the Ljubljana Castle, Ljubljana Cathedral, the Butchers' Bridge, the Dragon Bridge, Congress Square, Križanke, Cukrarna and the City Museum of Ljubljana, and the Free Walking Tour often covers the district. Allow a couple of hours for the museum.