Mežica Mine

Mežica lies in a narrow valley in Koroška, the Slovene part of Carinthia, in the far north of the country, directly under the long ridge of Peca, which marks the border with Austria and rises to over 2,100 metres. For several centuries, the hills above the town were mined for lead and zinc, and the mining shaped almost everything in the valley, from the layout of the villages to the traditions of its people. The mine closed in the 1990s, and part of the underground network has since been turned into a visitor attraction, giving a rare chance to see a real working mine rather than a purpose-built exhibit.

The visit starts at the Info Centre in Mežica, where guides explain the programme and give out helmets, lamps and safety instructions. Several kinds of tour are offered, and visitors choose according to their interest and energy. The simplest is a walking tour of the galleries, and others involve a ride on the mine's own small train, a cycling tour through the tunnels or a kayak tour on the flooded levels, which is the most unusual. The kayak route, which takes several hours, glides through dark, still water in narrow tunnels, lit only by headlamps, and gives a quite different sense of the mine's scale. Tours must be booked in advance, and some have age or fitness requirements, so it is wise to check the conditions when you reserve.

Whatever the form of the tour, the story told is the same. Guides describe how the ore was found, drilled, blasted and hauled out, what the work was like in damp and cramped conditions, and how technology changed from hand tools to compressed-air drills and electric locomotives. The galleries extend for hundreds of kilometres in total, on many levels, and the cool, constant temperature of the underground means that warm clothing is needed even in summer. Stout shoes are also advisable.

The mine is an important part of the identity of the Mežica valley, and the surrounding towns of Mežica, Črna na Koroškem and Prevalje have their own mining memories, with museums, monuments and annual traditions linked to miners. Above ground, Peca offers hiking, and several routes for Mountain Bike Nomad Day Tours lead through the forests and pastures of the area. The visit suits families with older children, groups and anyone interested in industrial history or adventure. Because the mine is much the same all year round, it is a good choice in wet weather, and spring and autumn are quieter than the high summer months.