Metlika Castle

Metlika is a small town in Bela Krajina, the White Carniola, in the far southeast of Slovenia, just a few kilometres from the Croatian border, and its castle sits on a rise above the old town. For centuries this was a frontier place. Bela Krajina lay on the edge of the Habsburg lands, exposed to raids from the Ottoman side, and towns and castles here were fortified accordingly. The castle in Metlika has medieval origins, and over the years it was rebuilt and altered, so that the present building is a mixture of periods, with thick stone walls, a courtyard and rooms that were later adapted for new uses.

Today the castle is first of all a place of museums. It houses the Museum of Bela Krajina, the regional museum for the area, which tells the story of the White Carniola through archaeological finds, folk costumes, textiles and crafts, and temporary art exhibitions. The collection shows what distinguishes the region: its own embroidery and decorated eggs, its wine traditions and the mix of cultures in a borderland that was settled by different peoples over time. The castle also hosts the Slovenian Firefighting Museum, an unusual and interesting collection that tells the story of volunteer fire brigades, which have been a mainstay of community life in Slovenian villages for well over a century. Old fire engines, uniforms and equipment fill the rooms, and families with children enjoy the vehicles.

The grounds and gardens are a pleasant place to walk, and from the elevated position there are views over the town, the vineyards and the rolling countryside towards the Gorjanci hills and the Kolpa valley. Sunset is a good time for photographs, when the light turns the old walls warm. Events such as concerts and cultural gatherings are sometimes held in the courtyard.

Opening times are seasonal and can change, so check before visiting, and ask about guided tours, which give a deeper understanding of the building and the museum collections. Metlika is also the centre of one of Bela Krajina's most famous products. The wine known as Metliška črnina, a dark red made from local varieties, is closely associated with the town, and tasting it is a natural part of a visit. The Hiša dobrot Bele krajine, the House of Delicacies of Bela Krajina, is a good place to sample and buy local products.

Metlika is also a convenient base for walking and cycling in the surrounding countryside, with routes through vineyards and along the Kolpa.

The castle suits history lovers, families and anyone curious about the borderlands of southeastern Slovenia. Allow an hour or two for the museums and a stroll around the grounds. Inside, Metlika Castle is a modest but rewarding stop.