Keltis

Pišece is a village in the Bizeljsko-Sremič wine district, in Posavje, in the south-east of Slovenia, close to the Croatian border, and it lies among hills so thickly covered with vines that the landscape seems to be made of rows. The district is known for its white wines, in particular Welschriesling, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, and above all for sparkling wines, since the cool nights and sandy-marly soils produce grapes with high acidity that suit the traditional method of making sparkling wine. Small family estates dominate, and many of them still keep their wine in old cellars dug into the soft rock of the hillsides, called repnice.

Keltis is the name of one of the family wine estates in this area, and its name recalls the Celts who lived in the region in the centuries before the Romans, a reminder that vines and settlements have been on these slopes for a very long time. Like other small producers in the district, the estate works with its own vineyards and its own cellar, and visitors can arrange to taste the wines on the spot, learning how the grapes are grown and handled and what distinguishes one bottle from another. Many winemakers in the area have moved toward organic methods and minimal intervention, using natural yeasts and keeping additions to a minimum, and some experiment with leaving white grape skins in contact with the juice for a while, which gives wines more colour and structure. The tastings usually take place in the cellar or on a terrace and may include sparkling wine, whites and sometimes reds.

The experience is personal and unhurried. The family is usually present, and the host explains the history of the estate, the character of the year's harvest and the choices behind the bottles. Local food, such as bread, cheese, cured meat and homemade pastry, often accompanies the tasting. Because estates are small and run by the family, visits are best arranged in advance by telephone or email, and opening hours vary with the season and with work in the vineyard, which is busiest in spring and at harvest in September and October.

The village of Pišece has more to see than wine. A medieval castle on a hill above the village, the cellars known as repnice, such as Repnice Najger, and neighbouring wineries such as Istenič offer a good day's exploration, and quiet lanes through the vineyards are ideal for walking and cycling. In spring the hills are green, in autumn they glow with colour, and at all times they offer wide views over the Sotla valley. A designated driver or a taxi is advisable if tasting at several places, since the roads are narrow and winding.