Istenic

Istenič is a sparkling wine house in the Pišece area, in the hills of Posavje in eastern Slovenia, close to Bizeljsko and the border with Croatia. The district is one of the main wine-growing areas of the country, known for the Bizeljsko-Sremič wine region, where vineyards climb the slopes above the Sotla and Sava valleys, and the cool, hilly landscape suits white varieties and the production of sparkling wine. The estate is known for making sparkling wine by the traditional method, in which the second fermentation takes place in the bottle, and it is often described as one of the pioneers of this style in the country. Details of tours and tastings should be arranged directly with the winery.

The traditional method, also used for champagne, is a slow and demanding process. A base wine is made from grapes picked early to keep their acidity, then bottled with a mixture of yeast and sugar that starts a second fermentation inside the sealed bottle, which creates the bubbles. The wine then ages in contact with the dead yeast cells for months or years, which adds complexity, bread and brioche notes and a fine, persistent mousse. The bottles are turned gradually so that the sediment collects in the neck, and it is removed in a final step called disgorgement, after which the bottle is topped up and corked. Understanding this process makes tasting more interesting, and visits to a sparkling wine cellar usually include a walk through the maturing bottles in cool, dark galleries.

The tasting itself normally includes several wines, from fresh young sparkling wines to richer aged cuvées, sometimes with local food such as cheese, cured meats and bread. The setting, with views over vineyards and rolling hills, adds to the pleasure, and the family-run character of many estates in the region gives visits a personal touch. As in most small wineries, it is advisable to book ahead, to ask about languages, group sizes and prices, and to arrange a driver, since the roads are winding and tastings can be generous.

The surrounding area offers other attractions. Pišece Castle is close, and the Bizeljsko district is known for its repnice, old cellars dug into the soft rock of the hillsides, which were once used to store turnips and wine and now form a distinctive part of the local landscape. The Keltis site and other local producers add variety, and the spa at Čatež, the castle at Brežice and the vineyards of Sremič are within easy reach.

The winery suits wine lovers, couples and small groups who enjoy a quiet day in the countryside. Autumn, with the grape harvest, and spring, when the vines are green, are especially pleasant times to visit.