Kavarna HiKoFi

A kavarna is the Slovene version of the Central European coffeehouse, and in a city like Maribor, which was for centuries a provincial town of the Habsburg monarchy and still bears the stamp of that culture, it plays a larger role than the word café suggests. People meet in a kavarna in the morning for coffee and a newspaper, at midday for a quick lunch, in the afternoon for cake and conversation and in the evening for a drink, and the same table may serve all of these purposes in a single day. Kavarna HiKoFi is one of the cafés in the centre of Maribor, in the area of the old town near the river, and it belongs to this tradition of unhurried sitting and watching the city go by.

The area in which it stands is the most atmospheric part of the city. The Lent district, on the bank of the Drava, is the oldest quarter, a place of narrow streets, small squares and tall houses, with the river promenade running along the water, and it is the setting of festivals and open-air events through the summer. Cafés with terraces line the quay, and in good weather, the tables fill early, with locals and visitors enjoying coffee in the sun and a view of the water, the towers of the old walls and the roofs of the old town. In winter, the scene moves indoors, to warm rooms with wooden furniture, and the smell of coffee and baking fills the air.

Coffee drinking in Slovenia follows its own habits. Espresso is the base, in a small cup, often followed by a glass of water, and a macchiato, a cappuccino or a milky coffee is the common order, while longer, weaker coffees are less usual. Cakes and pastries, including the national cream cake, kremšnita, from Bled, and strudels, are standard accompaniments, and many cafés also serve light meals, such as sandwiches and salads, as well as wine, beer and juices. Prices are generally moderate by Western European standards, and service is relaxed: nobody will rush a customer to finish and leave, and a single coffee entitles one to sit for an hour or two. Details of the menu, the hours and the style of any individual café vary, so visitors who are looking for something specific should check on the spot or ask locally.

The café is a good place to pause on a walk through the city. The Beautiful architecture of the centre, Maribor Castle, Maribor Cathedral and Freedom Square Maribor are all within walking distance, the Lent district, the Drava River Promenade, the Judgement Tower and the Maribor Art Gallery lie along the river and Calvary Hill (Kalvarija) rises on the northern side. The Cultural Tours and Historic Sites of the city are easy to link together with stops for refreshment, and MAK Restaurant offers a place for a meal. The best times for a quiet coffee are mid-morning and mid-afternoon, and the terraces are most pleasant from late spring to early autumn.