Inner harbor

The inner harbour is the centre of life in Izola, the small fishing town on the Slovenian coast between Koper and Piran. Izola began as a settlement on an island and was joined to the mainland by landfill in the nineteenth century, and the old town still has the compact, tightly packed look of a place that grew on a limited space. The harbour, the old stone quays and the small fleet of fishing boats tie the town to the sea, and for generations fishing and fish processing were the main source of livelihood. The cannery that once stood nearby made Izola's name known across Yugoslavia, and the memory of the industry is still part of local pride.

The waterfront is the best place to watch the town at work and at rest. Fishing boats lie along the quay beside small yachts, and on a good day fishermen unload the catch, sort and sell fish and mend their nets. The promenade is lined with cafes, fish restaurants and ice cream stands, and tables spread out toward the water, so the harbour is where residents meet in the morning for coffee and where visitors settle in the evening for a meal. Fresh fish, squid, shellfish and the white Malvazija wine of Istria are the staples of the harbourside menus, and seafood restaurants range from simple to ambitious.

From the quay it is a few steps into the old town. Narrow lanes climb between tall houses to small squares, with arches, courtyards, church fronts and balconies that reflect centuries of Venetian influence, and the bell tower of the parish church of St. Maurus, one of the town's landmarks, rises above the roofs. Artisan shops and galleries are tucked into the lanes, and the walk is pleasant at any time of day. The marina and the long curve of the seafront promenade lie on either side of the harbour, and boat trips along the coast leave from the quays in summer.

Other places worth visiting nearby include the Izolana, a centre that tells the story of the sea and the town, and the Pier of Tastes, where local producers present their products. The archaeological parks of Kaštelir and Simonov zaliv show that the coast was inhabited long before the Venetians, with traces from prehistoric and Roman times. Parks and beaches around the town offer a place to swim, and the restaurants of the town include places recognised by the Michelin Guide.

The harbour suits families, couples, food lovers and anyone who likes to watch boats and people. Evenings are the liveliest time, and late spring and early autumn are the most comfortable seasons. Sunset over the water, with the lights of the boats and the old town, is the best reason to linger.