Inn Pension Les

Čatež ob Savi is a village on the lower Sava in Posavje, in the southeast of Slovenia, a few kilometres from the town of Brežice, and for most Slovenes the name means one thing: Terme Čatež, the large thermal resort on the riverbank that is among the most visited in the country. The village around it is quieter and more rural, with fields, orchards and vineyards on the plain and slopes, and a number of inns and guesthouses that serve spa visitors and local people alike. Inn Pension Les is one of these, a family-run inn and guesthouse that combines a restaurant with simple, comfortable accommodation, and it is the sort of place that gives a feel for everyday Posavje hospitality.

The restaurant is the main attraction. Menus at inns of this type usually offer a mixture of classic Slovenian dishes and more international options, so that a table of travellers with different tastes can find something they like. You might expect soups, roast pork or beef, grilled meat, river fish, salads, and a choice of pasta and pizza, as well as traditional Sunday lunches, which are a social event in Slovenia, with a set meal of soup, roast, side dishes and cake. Ingredients are often bought locally, and the wine list is likely to feature wines from the nearby Bizeljsko-Sremič district and from other regions. Inns like this also cater to business lunches, family celebrations and tour groups, so they are well used to organising set menus for larger parties, and it is wise to book if you are a group. Opening hours are usually long, from breakfast to late evening, but check before you travel.

Accommodation at an inn like this is simple but practical, with guest rooms and sometimes apartments or a separate villa in the garden, and it is a convenient base for families and for people who want to visit the spa without paying hotel prices. The location on the plain makes it easy to reach the motorway and the main road, and cyclists will find flat, quiet roads and a cycle path along the Sava.

The area has plenty to see. Brežice Castle, with the Posavje Museum, is a few minutes away, and the old town has a historic water tower and a pleasant main street. Castles of Posavje describes the regional route, Mokrice Castle is a short drive, and Ošterija Debeluh, the Restaurant and Hotel Tri Lučke and Restaurant Repovž offer other dining choices.

It suits families, spa visitors and travellers on a road trip. Book ahead on weekends and at peak spa times. Accommodations are plain and clean, and Slovenia’s river country is at its most relaxed here.