Dober Krožnik

Mengeš is a small town north of Ljubljana, on the edge of the plain between Domžale and Kamnik, and it is close enough to the capital that many people from the city drive out for a meal. The name Dober Krožnik means good plate in Slovene, a modest name for a restaurant, and it describes the idea behind the place. In a country where eating out has traditionally centred on the gostilna, the village inn with a short menu of regional dishes, newer restaurants of this type take the same local ingredients and cooking traditions and present them with a little more polish, a wider menu and an attention to presentation. Dober Krožnik belongs to that new wave.

A restaurant of this kind in the Ljubljana area usually builds its menu around seasonal produce and Slovenian classics, with a modern twist. Expect soups and starters made from vegetables and herbs, main courses of beef, pork, poultry or river fish, perhaps with a dish of the day, salads and vegetarian options, and desserts that borrow from the strong Slovenian tradition of cakes and pastries such as potica, štruklji and gibanica. Local wine will be on the list, since Slovenia produces high-quality white and red wine, and staff can often suggest pairings. Service in the better Slovenian restaurants is warm and informal, and a meal is meant to be relaxed, so allow time. It is often noted that prices at a restaurant of this type are slightly higher than at a simple inn, but diners generally find that the quality justifies the cost.

The interior is described as cosy and welcoming, which makes it a good choice for a quiet dinner for two as well as for family gatherings and small celebrations. Because it is a popular choice, it is wise to reserve a table, especially on weekends and holidays, and to check the opening days and hours, which can vary and may include days of closure. If you have dietary requirements, ask in advance, since a small kitchen may need notice. Parking in a small town is usually easy but can be tight at busy times.

The restaurant fits into a visit to Mengeš. The Mengeš Castle ruins, the Churches and Cathedrals of the town and the programme of Concerts are all within a short walk, and the Harmonija Wellness Centre offers relaxation. A short drive takes you to Kamnik, Domžale and the foothills of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps.

It suits couples, families and friends looking for a good meal outside the capital. Book ahead and enjoy the slow pace. Guests are welcomed warmly. While the town is small, the plate is good.