Abandoned Military Barracks (art Squat)

Metelkova mesto, Metelkova City, is a cluster of former military buildings a few minutes' walk from the railway and bus stations in Ljubljana, and it is the best-known alternative cultural centre in Slovenia. The barracks were built by the Austro-Hungarian army in the late nineteenth century and were used by the Yugoslav army until 1991, when Slovenia became independent and the soldiers left. The site was then abandoned and scheduled for demolition, but in 1993, a coalition of artists, musicians and activists occupied the buildings and began to turn them into a space for independent culture. The occupation was originally intended as a protest against the demolition plans, and over time, it became an established and, to some extent, tolerated part of the city's cultural life, with the status of an autonomous cultural zone.

The complex consists of a group of low buildings around a central yard, and since the occupation, almost every surface has been decorated. Walls are covered with murals and graffiti, sculptures made of scrap metal, old machine parts and recycled objects stand in the courtyards, and colourful mosaics, figures and installations appear in unexpected corners. The look is deliberately rough and unfinished, and the atmosphere is informal, with people sitting in the yard, music coming from open doors and a constant sense of activity. The individual buildings house clubs, galleries, studios, workshops, bars and meeting rooms, each run by its own group, with different emphases, from experimental music and electronic nights to theatre, film, queer culture and visual art. A former military prison on the edge of the site has been turned into a hostel, in which former cells are now rooms decorated by artists.

The programme of events is large and varied. Concerts and club nights take place throughout the week, with the busiest times in the evening and at weekends, and exhibitions, workshops and discussions are organised by the various groups. Entry to most events is cheap or free, and the audience is a mix of students, artists, locals and visitors. Visitors should be aware that the area changes character from day to night: by day, it is quiet and good for walking around and looking at the art, while at night it is crowded and lively. As in any urban area at night, sensible care with valuables is advisable.

The zone is next to the Museum of Contemporary Art Metelkova, and the contrast between the squat and the institution is part of what makes the neighbourhood interesting. The old town, with Ljubljana Castle, the Cathedral, the Butchers' Bridge, the Dragon Bridge, Congress Square and Križanke, is a short walk away, and the Central Market and the Free Walking Tour provide further context. Daytime visits are free and informal.